Tracking the Rise of ‘Clean’ Beauty

If suddenly failing eyesight can be considered on-trend (readers are the new it-accessory, have you noticed?), I'm super-chic lately. I've accumulated a small mountain of reading glasses (tortoiseshell, matte grey, etc.), which I have become attached to for many reasons, not least because they make it so I can read things, like what I am typing right now, for example. I only wish I could wear them in the shower — I think about this — so I could also read the very small print on the labels and ingredient lists of the products I use daily, to figure out what is — and is not — inside.

That's where we are in beauty right now. What's in our products? How were they made? Who do we trust? What can we believe? What's marketing, and what's legit? What is the law? (Spoiler alert: there basically is no law.) Most importantly, what are the implications for our health? And what does this mean for the beauty business at large?

The safe/wholesome/healthy beauty movement started with the liberal use of the word "organic," a term that sounded great but was never a very good fit for personal care since it is first and foremost a food certification. (It is also exceedingly difficult for beauty products to be 100 percent certified organic, since almost anything that contains water is precluded.)

Organic as a category descriptor soon gave way to another spate of earthy, marketable, self-styled labels: "green", "botanical", "natural", "eco", "pure." They conveyed grounded, ethical, farm-to-dressing table values. They paint a nice picture and inspire confidence, but what they actually mean is not always clear. As the category continued to evolve, "natural" came out ahead as the broad label that identified the space.

But "natural" is problematic for its own reasons, most notably that there are no official regulations ensuring a product is actually natural, and even if something is formulated with (some, or mostly) natural ingredients, there is the question of what else is in there? (A product could contain one-zillionth-percent of a botanical extract — along with a host of who-knows-what-else — and thus present itself as "botanical." Think of fruit juice that contains 5 percent actual fruit.) What's more, just because an ingredient is indeed 100 percent "natural" does not necessarily make it safe (see: lead, mercury). And finally, not all synthetic ingredients are unsafe.

Which brings us to "clean." "Clean" is the new "natural." It's not a regulated classification; there is no official certification. It means slightly different things to different people, but the essential criteria are understood: "Clean means it does not contain ingredients that have been demonstrably linked to harmful health effects," says Blair Lawson, head merchant at Goop.

Gregg Renfrew, founder and chief executive of Beautycounter, adopted the term back in 2011 when she launched her beauty range and e-commerce site. "We are focused on safety versus source, and safe ingredients can be natural or man-made," she says. Renfrew wanted to poise her brand for commercial — as opposed to niche — success, positioning it with a straightforward message aimed not just at "tree huggers," but, "a mainstream person who wanted high-performance products safe for their health."

Today, the "clean" banner is carried by a small (for now) but vocal group of individual brands, dedicated retailers, platforms and activists that have taken it upon themselves to define and uphold the strict guidelines around clean products, from personal care and cosmetics to household cleaning items. They have taken it upon themselves because the beauty industry in the United States is virtually unregulated. In Europe, 1,500 substances are banned from personal care products. In the United States, that number is 30.

"The Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetics Act, which is one-and-a-half-pages long and has not been updated since 1938, allows you to put anything you want in a formulation," says Renfrew. "Consumers assume the FDA has the power to protect them, which it doesn't, and that cosmetic products are labelled in the same way as food products, which is not the case. The FDA doesn't have the power to recall products. They do research and they can suggest; they cannot enforce."

Clean-focused brands and retailers like Goop, Follain, Beautycounter and Credo blend commerce with content, providing education on ingredients and health concerns, and publishing lists detailing the substances and chemicals one will never find in the products they make and sell. Top offenders include hormone and endocrine disruptors (parabens, phthalates, chemical sunscreens like avobenzone and oxybenzone), suspected and known carcinogens (certain preservatives, formaldehyde releasers), and "fragrance," the most opaque "ingredient" of all, since it is basically a blanket term under which companies can hide any other ingredients they wish, without ever disclosing what they are (in the US this is perfectly legal).

Consumers are all ears. They've noticed. They care. They are demonstrating with their purchase power. Goop, which kicked off its e-commerce platform with fashion, started selling beauty — clean beauty, specifically — two years ago. "Now, it's 35 to 40 percent of our business each month," says Lawson.

Renfrew describes her company's growth as "explosive since the day we launched. We've been growing about 200 percent each year." Market sources estimate that the line will hit $225 million in retail revenue in 2017.

Beautycounter entered the market with 11 products six years ago, and now offers close to 130. Their latest introduction, Countermatch, a moisturiser based on bio-mimicry, sold out of 25,000 units in 12 hours when it dropped earlier this month. "We can sell a lot of product quickly," says Renfrew. Of the category at large, she says, "We know for a fact that our segment is outperforming traditional brands. And it's not slowing down at all."

As Tara Foley, founder and chief executive of Follain, the clean beauty retailer backed by venture-builder Launch, points out, "The global beauty industry [mass and prestige] is growing at around 3.8 percent, but the natural segment is growing faster, at about 10 percent." According to The NPD Group, natural brands across all categories are the swiftest-growing brand type within prestige, with skincare and makeup sales within the "spa/natural/wellness" segment accounting for $2.3 billion — up 11 percent — in the 12 months ending May 2017. Larissa Jensen, NPD's beauty industry analyst, reports that in skincare, they represent a quarter of all sales; within makeup (a smaller shared category), 11 percent of all sales, and within fragrance, where natural brands represent a still-tiny segment, they make up less than 1 percent of sales, but are growing by 20 percent. They're the fastest growing and only brand type within fragrance to gain double digits, she notes.

"The interest is there," says Jensen. "Natural is not regulated, so any brand can have ‘natural' positioning, but consumers are reacting to that natural positioning. It's something they're seeking out. We're at a crossroads. The industry is very much in a flux of change."

Thus far, the indies are the ones doing most of the work and reaping the rewards.

Let's Take a Moment to Appreciate Cersei's Poisonous 'Lipstick' Shade

As evil as Cersei Lannister is, one thing we can get behind is her beauty looks. Her hair (when she had it) was always a glorious crown of braids. Her brows, always hinting at mischief, are shaped to perfection. And on season seven, episode three of Game of Thrones, she seemed to be wearing a glossy, pink shade on her lips.

Of course, those who watched the episode know it was actually poison. She used it to kiss, thus kill, the daughter of her new prisoner Ellaria Sand, who used the exact same method to murder Cersei's daughter Myrcella back in season five.

It was horrendous. But, purely from a makeup standpoint, we were admittedly into the very on-trend sheen on the mad queen's pout (even while internally screaming "HOW COULD SHE DO THAT?!?"). Now, if you'll humor us, find ahead five glosses that all resemble the "shade" Cersei wore. Swipe these on and dare someone to kiss you.

How to apply SPF without ruining your make-up

Sun protection is one of the most confusing skincare topics. There's so much advice out there, often conflicting in terms of what factor and style of SPF is best, and the dangers of getting it wrong are all too real with skin cancer numbers rising. A new survey has revealed that over 27 percent of us don't apply sun cream to our face for fear of ruining our make-up.

While cosmetic brands are trying to help by incorporating sun protection into their foundation formulas, experts actively discourage women from relying on this alone. The simple reason for this is that very few of us apply enough foundation to equal the full SPF amount. It's also worth noting that sun cream needs to be applied regularly throughout the day as formulas wipe off and evaporate over time.

So, how can we keep our SPF topped up without spoiling our complexion? First and foremost, apply a generous layer of SPF before applying your foundation. While this won't keep your skin protected all day, it will see you through until lunchtime (unless you're hitting the beach or spending the entire morning outside in the sunshine).

It's lightweight and doesn't leave a chalky smear across your face. To ensure you've got an even layer we recommend spraying your face, patting the formula in and then re-spritzing. If none of this appeals and you're still concerned about ruining your make-up, we suggest you buy an extra large sun hat to keep your skin protected. Sun damage is, after all, a key skin ager, so you'll thank us in 20 years time.

The best multi-purpose balms

Multi-taskers have had to eat a sliver of humble pie recently, thanks to 'research' suggesting that doing more than one thing at once can have a deleterious effect on quality. Depends what you're doing I suppose. Walking and breathing? Quite doable for most of us. Moisturising and softening? All part of the same function. Ergo, when it comes to one-stop, do-it-all beauty products, the key to satisfaction, I think, is to choose those whose promises are mutually compatible.

In the run-up to holiday season, it's worth finding ones you love – being forced to check luggage in because you've breached those draconian flying restrictions is the kind of multitasking we can all do without. The following are all quite different in texture, but all heroes of the bathroom cabinet. Two or three of these products in the right combination and you're good to go just about anywhere.

Cult classic

Launched in 1930, this deservedly retains cult status because, thanks to its vitamin E, petrolatum and salicylic acid, it delivers four simple goals: it seals in moisture (thereby soothing), provides lasting shine (on lips, lids and cheekbones), exfoliates gently, and is terrific on feet.

Dermatologist recommended

This is rich in antioxidants, panthenol and glycerine (which moisturises without leaving an oily residue), this helps scratches and scars heal, softens and hydrates dry skin, and is nifty in cases of sunburn. It doesn't clog pores and gets the thumbs up from some serious dermatologists.

All-rounder

Developed by plastic surgeons as a post-operative treatment, this can be used as a moisturiser, but I prefer it to target problems. It cools, soothes, tightens and can relieve psoriasis, eczema, bruises, stretchmarks and burns. Containing arnica, madecassoside and peptides, it's a real beauty all-rounder.

For something special...

This is different from the above in that it feels like a treat, while doing some serious work. Altitude Oil calms and supports the immune system.

The best new season lipsticks to try this summer

Summer is upon us (even if the weather doesn't feel like it) and it's time to update your make-up. The easiest and quickest way is to swap out your lipstick for a fresh, new shade.

If you want a long-lasting, statement red lip, make-up artist Mel Arter recommends, "Applying lip liner and then blending it into the lip. Then go over the entire mouth with lipstick, Applied with a brush, and blot with a tissue for a long-lasting, matte finish."

For those who want more of a softer, undone finish, she suggests, "Applying your lipstick from the bullet, with no lip liner, for an informal, creamy texture – understated yet beautiful."

With this in mind, here are the latest shades and formulas to entice you this summer...